AIRIVAT HRV HE100 will provide the recommended number of exchanges to homes as large as 4,000 sq. ft.
The AIRIVAT HRV will transfer 70% to 80% of the temperature from the toxic brew it exhausts to the fresh air it brings into your home or office, saving your energy dollars.
How the AIRIVAT HRV works Indoor air loaded with pollutants is exhausted to the outside: its heating and cooling energy is transferred to the fresh outside air coming in via our highly efficient 91 sq. ft.(HE100) corrosion proof core.
OTHER FEATURES
. Two-speed, ULŽ Listed, balanced fans. . Class B, Thermally Protected motors. . Corrosion-proof Polypropylene core. Flame rating UL 94HB . Automatic electronic, ULŽ Listed, frost protection. User adjustable. . Condensate drain fitting for 3/8" hose (hose not included). . Washable 12" x 12" hogshair air filter. . Safety interlock switch . Plug into a grounded 110-120 Volt AC outlet. power may be supplied to the AirivaT using a humidistat, pollution detector, radon detector or timer. These devices are not included. . 3 year limited warranty on the unit . Lifetime warranty on the core
Specifications
Dimensions: 31" x 19.5" x 14" Weight: 68lbs. 120 Volt AC 60 Hz: Startup Amps- 1.7A Running draw- 100Watt Airflow Capacity (nominal): High Speed 130 CFM Low Speed 80 CFM Heat Recovery Efficiency: High Speed 73.5% Low Speed 86.0% Heat exchanger core: 91 sq feet, 6370 channels Pressure drop over core: .08" W.K. Internal balance within: .01" W.K. Temperature stabilization: <5 min.
FAQ's
What is a heat recovery ventilator?
A heat recovery ventilator is a fan system that:
1. Takes fresh outside air and delivers it into the home.
2. Takes stale house air and blows it outside.
3a. Exchanges the heat from the stale air blown outside to the fresh air coming in. (Winter).
3b. Exchanges the cold from the stale air blown outside to the fresh air coming in. (Summer).
What sort of heat recovery can I expect?
The efficiency of the Airiva HE100 is an industry leading 73.5%. This means that 73.5% of the energy contained in your heated or cooled house air that you blow outside is recovered!
How is the heat exchanged?
The energy is transferred from the warm air stream of the air being exhausted to the cool fresh air stream of the air being taken from outside (in the winter) in the core of the heat exchanger. This core consists of thousands of adjacent air channels through which the air flows. The material that the core is made of has a certain heat transfer coefficient. The core of the Airiva is made of Polypropylene. The material is not important as long as it is corrosion proof. Some cores are made of fiberglass, aluminum, copper, mylar, ceramics and other materials. The total surface area that the air is in contact with is important.
How much power does the Airiva use?
The power consumption is about the same as a 100 Watt light bulb.
Is it difficult to install?
Not difficult, but it involves a few things. I would say that an accomplished DIY person should be able to complete the job in 4 to 8 hours. (After you have collected all necessary tools and materials, see below). Please note: the installation materials are not provided.
What are the major tasks in a basic installation?
1. You will need to determine the location for the Airiva. 2. Then install a support for the unit. The Airiva weighs almost 80 pounds. 3. Install a 6" diameter duct for the fresh air intake to the outside of your home and install a rainproof vent cap. 4. Install a 6" diameter duct for the stale air exhaust to the outside of your home and install a rainproof vent cap. 5. Run a short length of 6" diameter duct for the fresh, conditioned air to a central location in your home, i.e. hallway or upstairs. 6. Run a short length of 6" diameter duct to pickup stale house air. Preferably near your forced air system and/or in a basement. 7. Install the condensate drain in the Airiva housing and run a 3/8" diameter hose to a nearby floor drain. 8. Plug the Airiva into a 110-120 Volt AC grounded house outlet. Note: The Airiva, as dictated by the National Electrical Code, only has a 2 foot long power cord, so you may have to install a dedicated grounded outlet near the unit.
Can I connect the Airiva to my forced air system?
Yes. Details of such installation are covered in the installation manual. This type of installation is only recommended if your central forced air system runs continuously at a low speed on a year 'round basis. You will need an air velocity meter that reads in Feet Per Minute (FPM) to properly adjust the airflow through the Airiva.
Can the Airiva freeze up when it is really cold outside?
The Airiva has a built-in electronic thermostat that will shut the unit fans down when certain low temperature limits are reached to prevent freeze-up.
How big a home can the Airiva service?
Recommendations from Government Agencies are a minimum of 6 air exchanges per day for your home. The Airiva HE150 is rated at 150 Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM) airflow, nominal. In a normal installation, witch restrictions from connecting ducts, the airflow is rated at 125 CFM on high speed. To calculate your requirements take: House square feet x ceiling height and divide by the Airiva CFM rating of 125 CFM (on High speed). I.e. a bungalow 1800 sq.ft. x 8' ceiling height = 14400 Cubic Foot. Divide by the Airiva flow of 125 CFM = 115 minutes to move all the air. Round to 2 hours. Per day you will get approximately 12 air exchanges in your home. Since this example is based on an 1800 sq.ft. bungalow, the Airiva would give 6 air exchanges per day for a 3600 sq.ft. home. In the 1800 sq.ft. example we recommend running the Airiva on 'Low' speed for about 7 ˝ exchanges per day.
Yes. The Airiva includes a washable 12" x 12" air filter which should be washed at least every three months of operation; more often in heavily polluted areas. The heat exchanger core, which is easily removable, must be hosed down at least once a year. You can do this in the sink or outside with the garden hose.
Is the Airiva safe?
The Airiva contains only components that have been rigorously tested to the Standards of Underwriters Laboratories Inc. (ULŽ). The blower motors are thermally protected. The housing has a safety interlock switch and the housing is a heavy gauge sheet metal.
What tools and materials will I typically need?
TOOLS: Power drill, power screwdriver, file or sheet metal reamer, reciprocating saw to cut 6" diameter openings through house wall, tin snips, screwdrivers, pliers.
MATERIALS: Strong shelf brackets with screws (wall plugs if brackets are installed in concrete wall), materials to install a 110-120 Volt AC outlet for the Airiva. 6" sheet metal take-offs (collars), 6" duct pipe and necessary elbows, outside rainproof vent hoods, manual 6" duct dampers, duct tape, self piercing #8 x 1/2" sheet metal screws to fasten 6" ducts and elbows, quality caulking, 3/8" ID clear plastic hose, screws to fasten vent hoods. Note what ends you need on the sheet metal parts, i.e. crimped or uncrimped. The four connections on the Airiva are crimped. Band-aids if you are not used to working with sheet metal.
Comments about Suncourt AIRIVA HE100 Heat Recovery Ventilation System:
I have used my HRV for over a year. I am at 7000' it was -25 in the winter and +90 in the summer. I have had no issues. I would change the units filter to keep the core clean. It has never frosted up. The frost control fails open so that if it fails the unit will not frost up. The "cold" air coming in is warm after passing through the unit. and the air being exhausted is "cold" in the winter. The frost control running all the time is $4 per year at my rates. The whole unit is 100 watts! Or less than $34 per year.
Primary use:
Personal
2/20/2009
4.0
Good for an entry-level unit
By Tom
from Portland, ME
About Me Homeowner
Pros
Efficiency
PRICE
Cons
Construction
Design
Best Uses
Cold Climates
Poor Air Quality
Comments about Suncourt AIRIVA HE100 Heat Recovery Ventilation System:
This is a good product for the price, but does have some design flaws and the latches may require a little tweaking to get a good seal on the door. The stickers were also upside-down on the unit I received...
MAJOR DESIGN FLAW: frost control. The unit is constantly sending power to the 24v terminals EXCEPT when frost control is ACTIVATED. Why isn't it the other way around (only send power when frost control is needed)? This costs an extra 12 watts, 24/7/365, which is about 100KW/hrs or $15-20 per year at current rates.
Added stupidity: when the unit is powered off, the damper will then OPEN, allowing COLD AIR into the house.
The "internal" frost control sounds like a better alternative because it shuts the unit down when the air is too cold - EXCEPT that, when the unit is shut down, the core cools even more and you have to wait for a very warm day to restart it. (or you can cheat and switch to "external" while starting the unit, then flip back to internal - but that could get to be a hassle)
The best solution I could come up with (short of taking it to an electronics whiz to rewire it intelligently) was to put a "normally closed" damper in-line with the fresh air intake, with a barometric damper on a T between there and the unit. When power is off, the fresh air pipe is closed by the damper (no backdrafts), and when the frost control is activated (or the unit is first starting up) the barometric damper allows house air in. It also provides some protection if the powered damper fails, because then the unit won't be sucking on a closed pipe and possibly burning out the fan.
Minor design flaw: fan position. The fresh-air-to-house fan is located on the side nearest the inside ducting, which means it is pushing its own noise into the house. It would have been a lot smarter to position this fan on the other side of the core to reduce noise.
The noise isn't bad, you'll notice it if you're near a vent and there isn't any other sound, but it's not loud enough to affect conversation or anything - if you're in the next room (and have carpet instead of wood/vinyl floors), you'll barely hear it at all.
On the up side, the unit seems to be VERY efficient (very low loss of heat) at the low fan speed. And you'd spend at least 40% more to get anything significantly better.
1/4/2009
(0 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
2.0
it works, sort of.
By blus4fr
from menomonie, wi
About Me Homeowner
Pros
Easy Installation
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Suncourt AIRIVA HE100 Heat Recovery Ventilation System:
I purchased this as a standalone unit for our superefficiency house. Pros: It did install easily, there's not much to it. I would recommend using permanent steel ductwork and not using the flex duct. Cons: The labels on the unit are upside down, the front door does not seal, the core inside the unit was not in the location it was supposed to be, the frost protection does not work, and it leaks condensate through the rivets instead of the drain. I think this was made on a Monday morning.
11/13/2008
5.0
easy to install
By g
from Goshen, IN
Pros
Easily Understood Instructions
Easy Installation
Good value vs others
Cons
Best Uses
Cold Climates
Warm Climates
Comments about Suncourt AIRIVA HE100 Heat Recovery Ventilation System:
We installed 2 arrivas in our new eco-duplex. It was the best value of what was on the market.
10/13/2008
1.0
Suncourt HRV
By Jeff
from New Gloucester, Maine
Pros
Cons
Bad Construction
Best Uses
Comments about Suncourt AIRIVA HE100 Heat Recovery Ventilation System:
The unit was poorly constructed with broken latches and a door that did not seal air tight for a device that should be.
